Seeing Lava Flow – A Once in a Lifetime Experience

Lava Flow on Hawaii

Lava Flow on Hawaii

Watching a volcanic eruption.  Seeing the lava spurt up and flow into the sea.  Feeling the heat radiating from the earth’s core.

It sounds surreal.  Unbelievable.

And there was no way I was going to miss it.  There was no way I was going to have my children miss it.

Even if it meant no food and a two mile hike in both directions – with the last quarter mile over hardened lava.

And did I mention we did all this in the dark?  With just a measly flashlight to light our path?

Crazy.  Insane.

Those are the words I would use, but not then.

On that Easter Sunday, it seemed perfectly logical that we arrive on the outskirts of Pahoa, pay a parking fee, and then begin hiking to where the lava was erupting.

By the time we arrived it was dusk and M was asleep in the backseat.  DH hefted him onto his back and began walking.  Thank goodness P was awake and able to walk.

And so we walked.  And walked.

And it got darker and darker.

Flicked on the flashlight and kept going.  Along with hundreds of other people.

When we arrived at the edge of the hardened lava flow which wiped out the town of Kalapana, I thought – Yeah! We’re there!

And then I realized that the bobbing trail of lights in the distance were people picking their way across the lava field in the dark.  Following a preset path of worn white footprints someone had painted onto the  black bumpy terrain.

OMG.

M was awake by now, so DH led our little group, holding M’s hand while I grabbed onto P’s and brought up the rear.

The ground was slippery and jagged.  Every step was carefully considered, then placed.  And far off in the distance we could see the occasional spurt of glowing red flame.  We kept going and all the while I was silently praying that the experience be worth it.

Please be worth the hunger, sore feet, and danger.

And then the path stopped at a roped off area. Beyond the ropes, a burning inferno that looked like hell.

Literally.

I know my pictures don’t even begin to do the eruption justice, but I did the best I could with what I had.  And in the end, sometimes experiences should just be memories.  Pictures and images forever stamped on your brain.

Kilauea eruption at Kalapana

Eruption at Kalapana

After about 30 minutes of watching the lava erupt, we left, journeying back along the same path we first traveled.

And through it all, my boys were troopers.  Amazing in their steadiness and lack of complaint.  I should have heard whining and moaning, but they were silent.

Because even children know when they have experienced something special.  Something that is a “once in a lifetime” event.

Something they may never see again.

DH and I carried the boys on our backs the last mile and when we stopped at a local 7-11 for a late night snack (nothing else was open), they ate Cheerios and Goldfish, again without complaint, and fell asleep over open containers before we reached our B&B.;

Chain of Craters Road – A “Must Do” (or Do Not)

Chain of Craters Drive Volcanoes National Park

Chain of Craters Drive

More of the same.

That’s what I thought after driving to the end of the Chain of Craters Road.  Yes, there are sweeping vistas of the ocean.  Yes, it’s spooky to see a road suddenly end because it’s covered with hardened lava.

But is it a “must-see”?  Probably not.

And in hindsight, it would have been a better idea to have used the time it took to drive the 19-mile road for something more practical . . . like eating.

By the time we finished with the Thurston Lava Tube and headed back to the car, the kids were begging for an ice cream and I wanted to do a little bit of shopping.  We drove back to Volcano House, hoping for some real food, but found little in the closed restaurant.  Thankfully the adjoining snack bar still had ice cream.

We ate some snacks and I got my Hawaiian souvenirs.  Then it was decision time.

It was mid-afternoon and we had seen or done all of the biggies in Hawaii Volcano National Park except for the Chain of Craters Road.  Should we or shouldn’t we?

Hubby was neutral, but pointed out that it might take some time to get to Kalapana (the spot where we could see the lava flowing at night).

I waved off his concerns.  The road was 19 miles, we could drive the Chain of Craters Road and have plenty of time to get to Kalapana and maybe even grab a bite to eat.

Wrong.  Wrong.  Wrong.

Yes, the drive was relatively quick.  But we had to walk about a mile to get to the area where the lava had hardened and covered the road.  And those great vistas of the current eruption hitting the ocean?

Forget about it.  All you could see was a plume of smoke far off in the distance.

End of Chain of Craters Drive Volcano National Park

End of the Road

Grrr.

By the time we hiked back to the car, drove back to the park entrance, and continued on our way to Kalapana, the sun was beginning to set.

But we journeyed on.  Hopeful that the sight of lava flowing into the sea would be worth the time, drive, and lack of food.

Eighteen places visited.  482 to go.

 

Hiking in Hawaii Volcano National Park

For a mother of two boys, I’m not a very outdoorsy kind of person.  I don’t like camping, I’m not athletic, and I’d much rather visit a museum than experience nature.

Hiking the Kilauea Iki Trail with Kids

Hiking the Kilauea Iki Trail

But I have two boys.  And so, I’ve adapted.

When hubby insisted we couldn’t go to a National Park and not hike somewhere, I inwardly sighed, but went along when bright eyes lit up with the prospect of adventure.

The Kilauea Iki trail (a four mile loop) leading from Crater Rim Drive down into the pit of Kilauea Iki crater is fairly easy on the way down.  The forest keeps you cool and the trail is nice and wide.  There are a lot of switchbacks so the incline isn’t severe (this is important for when you come back up).

Kilauea Iki Crater

Kilauea Iki Crater

And just when you think “Am I ever going to hit the bottom?” Bam!  You pop out of a lush forest into . . . desolation.

Everything is burnt and black.  Eerie vapor trails of steam ooze from the ground.  When you place your hand near these vents, you recoil.

It’s hot.  And you swallow as you realize a bubbling pit of lava and magma probably isn’t too far beneath your hand.

As we headed into the center of crater, hardened lava rock were casually tossed into haphazard piles.  Hubby went over, picked one up, and then smiled devilishly.

“Here, M,” he said, tossing my oldest an enormous rock.  ”See how strong you are.”

M caught it, lifted it over his head, and crowed “I’m the strongest man in the world.”

What a ham.

Lava rock, when cooled, is light from the trapped air pockets.

Meanwhile, it was comforting to spot life returning even amongst utter destruction.  Nature has a way of surviving – as long as we don’t mess it up.

flowers in Kilauea Iki crater

Flowers in Kilauea Iki Crater

At the center of the crater, we rested and gazed deep into the cracks emitting huge clouds of steam.
We scrambled around and explored a bit.

Kilauea Iki Crater

Steam vents in Kilauea Iki Crater

Then it was decision time, continue on the trail and loop back around to where our car was, or go back the way we came.  Some quick pros and cons and we turned around, heading back UP the steep incline we had just come down.

Grrr. . . this was hiking.

And I admit, I was concerned my guys couldn’t make it – or at least not without a lot of whining.  But M kept up with Dad walking a steady pace and I stayed with P, helping him along by taking smaller steps and holding his hand.

As an aside, it also helped P to play the “I’m Going on a Trip” Game while we walked. (The one where you keep bringing animals or whatever in alphabetical order).  By the time we hit “Z” we were almost done and the worst of the incline was behind us.

Yeah!  We did our hike (I figured it was about 3 miles) and could now cool off in the Thurston Lava Tube, then continue on our merry way down the Chain of Craters Drive.

And best of all – no more hikes.  Oh how wrong I was . . .

Hawaii Volcano National Park

Eruption at Kilauea Crater Hawaii Volcano National Park

Kilauea Crater

By the time we were finished with our Easter egg hunt, the kids were starving.  We headed back to our B&B; for breakfast only to be told we had missed it!

Ack!  What good is a B&B; if you can’t have breakfast late on Easter Sunday???

Fortunately for us, we were within walking distance to the Lava Rock Cafe.  We loaded up and our waitress asked about our plans for the day.

Well, duh.  Spending it at Hawaii Volcano National Park, of course.

And in a typical laid-back Hawaiian manner, she nodded at the kids and told us we shouldn’t miss the nightly lava flow.  Especially since it was “really flowing.”

Seeing a lava flow was a primary reason we went to the Big Island, but I’d pretty much written off the possibility.  According to all the information I’d gathered, the National Park Service had closed off all access to the current eruption.

How fortunate, then that the current eruption was flowing over land not controlled by the government.  We got the details of where to go and hoofed it back to the Park for church services at the KMC (Kilauea Military Center).

The guys got more candy and then we started ticking off items on my to-see list, which was severely abridged with a partial closure of the Crater Rim Drive.

First item, the steam vents.

Steam vents at Hawaii Volcano National Park

Steam Vents

Rain that’s soaked into the ground is heated and releases as steam through cracks.

The place area looks eerie, but not as spooky as the view you can get from a quick walk to the crater rim.

The day we went, Kilauea was particularly violent spewing out methane gas and some small rocks onto Crater Rim Drive (which forced its closure).  No matter, we got close enough, thank you.

Then it was back into the car to drive past the visitor center and stop at Kilauea Iki overlook.
This section was last active in 1959 – for a frightening 36 days.  Lava spewed forth in fountains reaching up to 1900 feet and covered the crater floor.

Kilauea Iki overlook

Kilauea Iki Overlook

Check, item number two of my must-see list.

I was all ready to move on to #3 – the Thurston Lava Tube, when hubby said – “Hey, are those people down there?”

“Yes, dear.”

“Cool.  Let’s hike down.”

Uh, excuse me?

“C’mon.  You can’t go to a National Park and not take a hike.”

Oh, great.

And so we killed my carefully planned schedule and took a hike.

 

Mount Haleakala and Medical Mishaps

It’s never fun to get sick and getting sick on vacation is even worse.  But finding out your insurance won’t cover an emergency visit to the doctor while on vacation?  Absolutely pitiful.  But when hubby woke up with a pounding earache after our snorkeling trip, we had no choice but to delay our trip to Mt. Haleakala until he could get some relief.

Moms always pack for the worst – Pepto Bismol for tummy problems, aspirin for headaches, and band-aids for boo-boos.  But when emergencies happen (and they do), you have to head for the nearest doctor.

And then you have to pay.

A lot.

Why?  Because doctors in Hawaii (or wherever you are) don’t take out-of-state insurance cards.  And if you get sick in a foreign country (which I did on our honeymoon), be prepared to pony up cash – as in immediately.

Did we submit our claim when we returned?  Absolutely.

We were denied because we didn’t get a referral from my hubby’s primary care physician!!  (Hello, there was – what? – a six hour time difference???)

Sigh.

So after a delayed start to our day, we finally headed up the Mount Haleakala Crater Road (#24 in Frommer’s 500 Places to Take Your Kids Before They Grow Up).  A lot of people go up really early to see the sunrise and then bike down.



We chose not to do either because 1) you have to get up really early and 2) those bikes were out of control.

As in racing down the mountain out of control.

No, thank you, we don’t need to add concussion to our list of trip ailments.  We were very content to wind our way up to the top (over 10,000 feet) and get lost in the clouds.  Along the way we did a little bit of hiking and admired the silversword plants, unique to the area.

You can easily spend an entire day hiking the crater and exploring, but we were on a tight schedule thanks to my guys crying “Mutiny” the previous day to spend their time at the pool and hubby’s unexpected medical mishap.

Thankfully, the fog cleared right before we were ready to head down for lunch (Kula Lodge – very yummy and filling) and we were able to get some nice photos.

We also discovered a fabulous resource for kids:  the National Parks Passport.  Just like a real passport, you can get it stamped any time you visit a national park, historic site, or monument.  A great souvenir and a nice way to plan future trips.

Seventeen places visited, 483 to go.

Next up:  On the Highway to . . . Hana